In the 1990s surfing wasn’t cool. At least, at the time, that's how it seemed to me. It's taken many years to come to terms with why almost as soon as I had learned to surf, I stopped again. What follows is my critical diagnosis...
Lagos, Nigeria is one of the fastest growing cities in the world. Its port is a key assets & one of the busiest in Africa. An intriguing by-product of the port, created by rearranging various lagoons & channels, is the artificial beach of Tarkwa Bay home to a clean wedge of a wave tucked neatly into its western corner....
Ebay is overflowing with Vivitar Amphibias. It's amazing how many pristine ones are out there and kind of blows my mind that people aren't scooping them up...
Male hegemony dominates the history of surfing, sadly this still seems to be the case in the 2010s. In most instances the only "surf" photos of women from the seventies show them lazing around in bikinis. Flicking through Hideaki Sato's North Shore 1970-1980 book one particular image caught my eye. A black and white photo of a woman cranking down the line at Haleiwa...
Through various forms of wrangling, family favours and taking full advantage of maternity leave laws, The Golden Rays were able to spend two weeks of both October 2016 and October 2017 in Malibu, the stretch of coast where the Los Angeles sprawl peters out into the Santa Monica Mountains...
